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Unturned hamachi bit slicer3/16/2023 In a city where even the most talented chefs, save for a select handful, are unequipped to cook with complete devotion to the rhythm of the season, diners cannot afford to have their local foodways further obscured, forever unfulfilled, by a steady stream of slick expansions ready to penetrate the “flyover” market. They divert attention away from local competitors within the same genres and flex their corporate muscle to capture a lowest common denominator customer whose patronage, like it or not, pays the bills. But these shiny openings rarely lay down deep roots. Residents and tourists alike may, at first, be drawn to some transplanted novelty. Outside restaurants might help occupy pricey real estate and provide employment. World Central Kitchen has transformed America’s goofy ambassador of Spanish cuisine into a sage humanitarian who has utterly transcended his association with the cloistered world of fine dining.īut ThinkFoodGroup, certainly, is not a charity, and any moves that Andrés makes as a restaurateur must be subjected to the same cold analysis you apply towards Chicago’s homegrown “ talent.”Īxiomatically, you believe that the Windy City benefits little from interloping concepts that made their names pleasing a different set of patrons in a different place. The chef, no doubt, has redefined his profession-demonstrating, over the past decade, the key role it can play in tactically responding to sudden incidences of food insecurity. So, despite finding D.C.’s minibar to be one of the finest “molecular gastronomy” restaurants in the country, you viewed José Andrés’s Midwestern expansion with a bit of disdain.
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